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Casting Rod Build Details, Part 1

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All the parts before we begin

All the parts before we begin

Rod design can be tricky without following a pattern or being able to hand-pick components from bins and sure-fit parts together. Beginner rod builders typically depend on kits or some form of impersonal instruction like a book or video. If you can get into a workshop or have someone with experience walk you through your first rod you’re ahead of the curve. With over ten years of rod building experience I still appreciate a little outside expertise. Before ordering it is important to be familiar with things like guide sizes, tip top barrel sizes, and how to use calipers or a micrometer to check other measurements. A lot of this will become second nature as your rod building experience grows. We can see now that the rod designing, or plan, is the first step, and as my first teacher of this craft always said, “You gota have plan!”

For this project we are using a St. Croix rod blank, model 5S66MLF2-G. This means it is a ‘graphite 5’ blank, spinning model, 6 foot-6 inch, medium-lite fast-action, 2 piece, green finish. We’re using REC recoils made of nickel titanium; these are flexible and corrosion resistant. Our cork is premium flor grade, plus we’ll be using some burnt burl as well as rubber composite. The reel seat is a Fuji graphite, exposed blank trigger seat. The rest of the parts include a Struble nickel silver winding check, a small chrome hook keep, a Fuji titanium SiC tip top, and a Fuji rubber butt cap. We may not end up using the butt cap. Most of these components will have to be modified first before being assembled to the rod.